Building Movement Routesetting Management

Pre-Conference Workshop
Building Movement: Routesetting Management

Workshop Description

In this workshop, participants will explore fundamental and challenging questions for the climbing gym industry.  How do we best define the role of the Routesetter in a commercial climbing gym?  Head Routesetter?  How can we best structure routesetting programs to maximize organization, efficiency, and measure performance?  How do we better connect our routesetting programs to the interests and needs of the consumers of our product, the gym users? 

Tracking and Management.  A successful climbing facility will have an effective system for tracking route creation and rotation, as well as a clear and organized program for management of the routesetting process.

Creativity and Diversity.  Climbing gym users benefit from an experience where they encounter unique climbing experiences and a diversity of styles.  Developing ways to promote creativity and strategically plan for diversity among Routesetters’ work can help to both sustain and improve the product and the Routesetters’ morale.

Communication and Teamwork.  A strong routesetting program will have clearly defined roles that emphasize and support routesetters working together to create and improve the product of the climbing facility.  Effective communication and working relationships between individual Routesetters, the Head Routesetter, and the gym management are essential.

In this workshop we will spend a portion of the time in a lecture and discussion format, considering different ideas, methods, and questions about the role of the routesetter in a commercial gym environment and creating and managing an effective routesetting program.  Participants will also have the opportunity to create boulder problems based on defined challenges, as well as forerun and work together to provide feedback and assess their work based on previously discussed ideas and goals. 

Workshop Goals:  This workshop will focus on the challenges and goals of effectively managing a routesetting program in a commercial climbing gym.  Beginning by looking at climbing wall routes as the primary product of a climbing gym, participants will discuss route management and planning, organizing routesetting and the roles of both Routesetter and Head Routesetter in the climbing gym.

Presenter Bios

Chris Danielson, with over 15 years experience in the climbing industry, has worked at numerous climbing walls as a routesetter, instructor, and professional consultant. With his business Thread Climbing, Chris provides insight to all types of climbing facilities on general start-up, facility and wall design, routesetting, programming and operations management, and other specific areas. He has been to over 200 climbing facilities worldwide, traveled and climbed extensively, and has a diverse background outside of the climbing world. Chris is the Chairman of the USA Climbing Routesetting Committee and an IFSC Certified Routesetter, with experience at multiple National and World Cup competitions. In addition to his consulting and routesetting work, Chris is the National Climbing Wall Representative for Great Trango Holdings, Inc. brands (e-Grips, Trango, PMI, SMC), Teknik, So iLL, and Moon Climbing. Chris holds a MA in Social Science from the University of Chicago, and BA degrees in Philosophy, Religion, and Anthropology from Miami University.

Justen Sjong has been making his mark across the country for the past 19 years. In 2008 he established the “Hardest Free Big Wall” in the world, Magic Mushroom 5.14a VI on El Cap, his fourth El Cap free climb. As the Head Setter at Movement Climbing + Fitness, Justen applies a big-wall organizational style to the setting crew, living by the meme: anything that can go wrong will go wrong. Justen management style is to encourage distinctly different setting styles among crew members, avoiding cookie-cutter routes. Justen’s own style is known for simulating featureless, ‘flowy’ granite climbing on plastic. Currently, his focus is on creating a database for tracking each climb, crew-member output and member comments on routes that allows for tangible feedback to each individual crew member, managing costs, and better product for the members. Justen has been an active route setter across the country, in Bay Area and Seattle area gyms and very active in both sport and traditional climbing.